The right size depends on three key factors — your cargo, your tow vehicle, and your storage space.

• Cargo:
  Consider the type, weight, and volume of what you’ll be hauling most often. Smaller sizes like 4×6 or 5×8 are perfect for light hauling, tools, or small ATVs. Mid-range sizes like 6×12 or 7×14 offer room for multiple pieces of equipment or motorcycles. For vehicles, large machinery, or business use, you’ll want 8.5×20 and up. We even offer trailers up to 8.5×36 for maximum capacity.

• Tow Vehicle:
  Make sure your truck or SUV can safely tow the trailer size you choose. Larger trailers not only weigh more but also have higher GVWRs (Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings), requiring more towing power and braking capacity.

• Storage Space:
  Consider where the trailer will be kept when not in use. Will it fit in your driveway, garage, or storage lot? Larger trailers like an 8.5×36 need more parking room and turning space.

Bottom line: If you need the most capacity possible, our 8.5-foot-wide models up to 36 feet long give you room for just about anything. If portability and easy storage matter more, a smaller model may be your best fit.

Both steel and aluminum enclosed trailers have their strengths — the best choice comes down to budget, weight requirements, and maintenance preferences.

• Budget:
  Steel trailers are generally more affordable upfront, making them a great choice if you want durability without a high initial investment. Aluminum trailers cost more initially but can save money over time due to lower maintenance and higher resale value.

• Weight Requirements:
  Aluminum is significantly lighter than steel, which means easier towing, better fuel efficiency, and the potential to carry more cargo within your vehicle’s tow limit. Steel, while heavier, provides a sturdy feel and can be ideal for extremely heavy loads if your tow vehicle can handle the weight.

• Maintenance Preferences:
  Steel trailers require periodic maintenance such as painting or coating to protect against rust and corrosion, especially in wet or salty environments. Aluminum, on the other hand, is naturally rust-resistant, making it a better option for low-maintenance ownership and long-term appearance.

Bottom line:
If you want a rugged, budget-friendly workhorse and don’t mind occasional upkeep, steel is a solid choice. If you prioritize lighter towing, long-term rust resistance, and lower maintenance, aluminum may be the smarter investment.

Enclosed trailers typically use aluminum skin in thicknesses like .024, .030, or .040 gauge. Thicker aluminum (.030 or .040) offers better dent resistance, improved durability, and a smoother appearance — making it ideal for heavy-duty use or trailers that will be exposed to frequent road debris. Thinner aluminum (.024) is more affordable and lighter but more prone to showing waves or dents over time.

Another option is PolyCore aluminum (also called bonded or laminated aluminum). This material is a smooth aluminum sheet laminated to a plastic (polypropylene) core, creating a rigid, lightweight panel.

Pros of Standard Aluminum Skin:

• Lower cost compared to PolyCore

• Easier to repair if damaged

• Available in multiple thicknesses and finishes

Cons of Standard Aluminum Skin:

• Thinner gauges can show oil canning (wavy appearance)

• More susceptible to dents and scratches

Pros of PolyCore Aluminum:

• Smoother finish with no visible rivet lines in most builds

• Stronger and more rigid without adding weight

• Excellent dent resistance due to the poly core layer

• Often used for higher-end trailers or mobile business units

Cons of PolyCore Aluminum:

• Higher upfront cost

• More difficult to repair if damaged

• May not be available from all manufacturers

Bottom line: If appearance and dent resistance are top priorities, PolyCore aluminum is an excellent choice. If cost is a bigger concern and you don’t mind occasional cosmetic wear, standard aluminum in a thicker gauge (.030 or .040) is a solid, durable option.

At Make My Trailer, every enclosed trailer comes standard with durable leaf spring axles — a reliable, time-tested choice for most hauling needs. From there, customers can choose to upgrade to torsion axles for an even smoother ride, and once you’ve selected torsion, you can also choose between straight or spread axle configurations for more specialized performance.

Leaf Spring Axles (Standard)

• Ride Quality: Uses stacked steel springs that flex to absorb bumps. While not as smooth as torsion, they remain dependable and sturdy.

• Maintenance: Requires occasional lubrication and checks for wear, but parts are widely available and inexpensive to replace.

• Repairability: Easy to service almost anywhere.

• Best For: Cost-conscious buyers who need a rugged, everyday workhorse.

Torsion Axles (Upgrade Option)

• Ride Quality: Internal rubber cords absorb road shock for a smoother, quieter ride. Reduces bounce, especially on uneven roads.

• Maintenance: Sealed units — no regular lubrication or adjustments needed.

• Durability: Designed for long-term use; however, if a torsion axle fails, the entire unit usually needs replacing rather than repairing.

• Best For: Customers who prioritize comfort, stability, and low maintenance.

Straight Axles (Available after choosing torsion)

• Design: The axle beam runs straight across, keeping the trailer higher off the ground.

• Pros: Stronger for heavy-duty loads, better ground clearance, less chance of bottoming out.

• Cons: Slightly higher load height and center of gravity.

• Best For: Hauling heavy cargo over uneven or off-road conditions.

Spread Axles (Available after choosing torsion)

• Design: Axles are placed farther apart for more even weight distribution.

• Pros: Improves highway stability, reduces tire scrub, and balances weight better on long trailers.

• Cons: Makes sharp turns tighter and can cause extra tire wear when maneuvering in small spaces.

• Best For: Large trailers hauling heavy or bulky loads at highway speeds.

Bottom line:

• All trailers start with leaf spring axles (proven durability at the best value).

• Upgrade to torsion for smoother rides and lower maintenance.

• After upgrading, choose straight axles for clearance or spread axles for stability.

Select a height that allows comfortable standing inside while ensuring it fits in your storage space or garage.

Ramp doors are best for rolling cargo like ATVs or lawn mowers. Barn doors are great for tight loading spaces and lighter cargo.

At Make My Trailer, we specialize in flat roof enclosed trailers because they deliver the perfect balance of durability, utility, and value. While some manufacturers offer rounded roofs, a well-built flat roof — like ours — is engineered to perform just as well when it comes to weather protection, without sacrificing design flexibility.

Why flat roofs are a great choice:

• Excellent Weather Protection: Our flat roofs are sealed with precision to prevent leaks, using high-quality materials and proper flashing to withstand rain, snow, and sun.

• Stronger Structure: The flat design creates a more rigid frame, reducing flex and increasing stability.

• Easier to Customize: Perfect for installing ladder racks, rooftop storage, A/C units, vents, or signage.

• Cost-Effective: Typically more affordable to manufacture and repair, keeping your long-term ownership costs down.

• Clean, Professional Look: A sleek, squared-off profile that matches the modern, sharp style many of our customers prefer.

Bottom line: With our high-quality sealing methods and robust construction, a flat roof gives you reliable leak protection, customization freedom, and long-lasting durability — making it the smart choice for both personal and commercial use.

Radial tires typically last longer, ride smoother, and perform better for highway travel compared to bias ply tires.

Whether you need a special license or upgraded registration depends on your trailer’s size, weight rating (GVWR), and local state laws.

• Smaller Trailers (like 4×6, 5×8, or 6×10 SA):
  These usually have lower GVWRs (often under 3,000 lbs) and can typically be towed with a standard driver’s license. Registration is usually straightforward and similar to registering a small utility trailer.

• Mid-Size Trailers (like 6×12 TA, 7×14 TA, or 8.5×16 TA):
  These can have higher GVWRs (3,500–7,000 lbs or more). In most states, a regular driver’s license is still fine, but you may need to ensure your tow vehicle’s registration and insurance match the weight you’re hauling.

• Larger or Heavy-Duty Trailers (like 8.5×24 TA up to 8.5×36 TTA):
  With GVWRs that can exceed 10,000 lbs, some states may require a Class A or B commercial license (CDL) or a non-commercial Class A license. Registration fees may also be higher, and in some places, you might need to display a commercial plate.

Key things to check:

• Your trailer’s GVWR (found on its VIN plate).

• Your tow vehicle’s towing capacity.

• Your state’s DMV requirements for towing weight and licensing.

• Insurance coverage for both vehicle and trailer.

Tip: Always verify with your state’s Department of Motor Vehicles before purchase so you’re confident you’re in full legal compliance. At Make My Trailer, we can help you determine the GVWR and guide you toward the right size to keep you safe, legal, and ready to haul.

The choice between new and used enclosed trailers comes down to budget, usage needs, and how long you plan to keep it.

Buying New

• Pros:

  • Full manufacturer warranty for peace of mind.

  • Zero wear and tear — you’re the first owner.

  • Ability to choose your exact size, color, and options.

  • Meets the latest safety and manufacturing standards.

• Cons:

  • Higher initial cost compared to used trailers.

Buying Used

• Pros:

  • Lower upfront cost.

  • Good for occasional use or short-term needs.

• Cons:

  • No factory warranty unless recently purchased and transferable.

  • Potential hidden wear, rust, or frame damage.

If Buying Used, Check For:

1. Title & Registration — Make sure it has a clean title with no liens.

2. Frame & Structure — Look for rust, cracks, or bending in the frame.

3. Axles & Suspension — Ensure axles aren’t bent and suspension components aren’t worn.

4. Roof & Walls — Inspect for leaks, dents, or loose panels.

5. Floor Condition — Check for rot or soft spots, especially in wooden floors.

6. Doors & Latches — Make sure they open, close, and lock smoothly.

7. Tires — Look for dry rot, uneven wear, and proper load rating.

8. Lights & Wiring — Test all brake lights, turn signals, and running lights.

💡 Pro Tip: At Make My Trailer, every new trailer comes with a warranty and is custom-built to your needs, so you know exactly what you’re getting from day one. If you’re comparing to a used trailer, weigh the lower cost against the potential repairs and shorter lifespan.